Pubblicato in: Agricoltura

Finalmente buone notizie. Il Bordeaux 2016 è da favola.

Giuseppe Sandro Mela.

2017-04-22.

2017-04-22__Bordeaux__001

Dalla Francia non arrivano solo notizie nefaste di attentati sanguinosi oppure la ridda di prospezioni elettorali che prognosticano tutto ed il contrario del tutto.

Arrivano anche notizie liete.

«The Bordeaux 2016 vintage is shaping up to be potentially the best for at least six years, comparable in structure and richness with the landmark 2009 and 2010 wines and in some respects surpassing them»

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Eguagliare l’annata 2010 è davvero difficile, ma superarla meriterebbe veramente di pigliarsene qualche bottiglia da bere con amici o, meglio, con una bella ragazza.

Un’idea?

Pauillac Château Lafite Rothschild 1er Cru 2010 – Domaines Barons de Rothschild.

Fate solo attenzione che sia stato conservato ad arte e che il trasportatore non lo abbia trattato come si tratta il Tavernello.


Bloomberg. 2017-04-22. Bordeaux ’16 Vintage Looking Like the Best in Six Years

– Producers say vintage has potential to be best since 2010

– Dry summer following wet spring gave wines freshness, balance

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The Bordeaux 2016 vintage is shaping up to be potentially the best for at least six years, comparable in structure and richness with the landmark 2009 and 2010 wines and in some respects surpassing them, according to producers and merchants interviewed this month.

Buyers who attended trade tastings in the region agreed quality is high and indicated they expect that to be reflected in increases of 10 percent or more for ’16 release prices relative to 2015s. The wine is sold forward while still maturing in barrels and will be offered to the international trade over the next few weeks.

The vintage comes after a difficult period for Bordeaux, which saw prices peak in 2011 on the back of speculative buying, then slump more than 40 percent in the following five years. A run of poor harvests between 2011 and 2013 was followed by an improved crop in 2014 and a high-quality vintage in 2015. Now producers are saying 2016 marks a new high point.

“It has the structure of 2010 but the elegance of 2015, 2009,” according to Veronique Sanders of Chateau Haut Bailly in Pessac-Leognan. “The tannins are very round.”

The character of the vintage was shaped by highly unusual weather, which featured a very wet spring followed by an exceptionally dry summer and then cool nights and warm days in September and October allowing grapes to ripen while preserving their freshness.

August temperatures were 5 degrees Celsius more than normal while the month had 30 percent more sunshine than average, according to a study by Laurence Geny and Axel Marchal of the University of Bordeaux. The first 13 days of September were the hottest since 1950, followed by brief rain and then more sun which gave renewed impetus to ripening.

“It’s rare to have such balance,” Philippe Dhalluin of Chateau Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac said. “It’s due to the summer. Maturity came very slowly.”

At nearby estate Chateau Pichon Baron, owned by Axa Millesimes, Christian Seely said that amid the favorable vintage “tannins needed to be controlled,” while across the road at Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Nicolas Glumineau summed up the vintage as “everything in balance.”

Over on the right bank 2016 was “a great combination of the terroir and the technique,” according to Marielle Cazaux at Chateau La Conseillante in Pomerol, while Jean-Valmy Nicolas at nearby Chateau Figeac in Saint Emilion said the estate’s 2016 was “the best Figeac produced in the modern era.”

Stephanie de Bouard-Rivoal of Chateau Angelus in Saint Emilion said the 2016 vintage was characterized by “a lot of freshness, precision” and that while the favorable harvest weather would have allowed the estate to produce more bottles, “we decided to be more selective.” Her cousin Thierry Grenie de Bouard, who joined her last year in the estate’s top management, said 2016 was exceptional for its “long maceration, long extraction.”

“A vintage which seemed so challenging at the beginning totally exceeded expectations,” James Snoxell, head of buying at Armit Wines in London, wrote in his vintage report. “The vintage turned out to be a remarkably successful one.”

U.K. buyers will have to contend not only with potentially higher release prices for the wines, but also an 8 percent drop in the pound against the euro since last June’s referendum on Britain leaving the European Union, which will exacerbate any premium.

Philippe Kalmbach of the Wine Source Fund said that while unchanged prices, excluding currency fluctuations, would be the “best-case scenario,” he anticipated price increases since Bordeaux producers were reaping the benefits of investment in new wine-making facilities and cellars. “With all this investment, there is a feeling they can’t make a bad wine,” he said. “The tannins feel very silky.”

 

Annunci
Pubblicato in: Agricoltura, Devoluzione socialismo

Vigneti e frutteti. Tra gelo e governo stanno andando alla malora.

Giuseppe Sandro Mela.

2017-04-20.

2017-04-20__Vigneti_001.png

Francia. I viticoltori hanno acceso dei fuochi nelle vigne per riscaldarle.


«La gelata della notte scorsa in Veneto ha fatto “strage”  di vigneti, alberi da frutto e ortaggi in varie zone del Nordest»

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«A Vicenza le grandinate hanno distrutto interi vigneti di merlot, raboso e cabernet e ora il gelo ha piegato interi vigneti compromettendo nella zona dei Colli Berici il 70-80% del raccolto»

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«Il guaio – spiega Confragricoltura – è che molti agricoltori si erano assicurati per la grandine, ma non per il gelo, ritenendo l’inverno ormai finito e altri stanno ancora attendendo dallo Stato i contributi del 2015. Un momento davvero difficile»

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«stanno ancora attendendo dallo Stato i contributi del 2015»

Questo stato sciatto e trasandato, del tutto incurante dei Cittadini Contribuenti e delle necessità del paese, è in ritardo di due anni nel pagamento dei contributi.

Fa più danni questo stato della grandine e del gelo.

Nota.

Devo la segnalazione alla cortesia dell’amico dr. Otello Girardi.


Gazzettino. 2017-04-20. Coldiretti: «La gelata improvvisa ha fatto strage di vigne e frutteti»

La gelata della notte scorsa in Veneto ha fatto “strage”  di vigneti, alberi da frutto e ortaggi in varie zone del Nordest. La consigliera regionale Cristina Guarda (Amp) ha chiesto con urgenza «la dichiarazione dello stato di calamità da parte della Regione Veneto».

La coda invernale, dopo le temperature primaverili dei giorni scorsi, è arrivata la notte scorsa, facendo scendere la temperatura a -1 grado anche in pianura, provocando la formazione della brina e gelate estese nei campi con pesanti danni alle colture. «Il gelo – rileva Coldiretti – ha colpito l’agricoltura proprio mentre in molti territori si stanno facendo i conti della grandine che, in Veneto, ha colpito le coltivazioni di Radicchio di Chioggia Igp, uno dei prodotti vanto dell’agricoltura regionale mentre nella zona di Venezia una tromba d’aria ha distrutto alcune serre. A Vicenza le grandinate hanno distrutto interi vigneti di merlot, raboso e cabernet e ora il gelo ha piegato interi vigneti compromettendo nella zona dei Colli Berici il 70-80% del raccolto». Secondo la Coldiretti le gelate hanno interessato anche i vigneti dei Colli Euganei colpendo soprattutto le piante più piccole e più giovani. I danni in alcuni vigneti arrivano tra il 70% e l’80% di perdita del raccolto, con qualche punta al 100%.

«In decenni di lavoro agricolo – ha detto il vice presidente di Coldiretti Vicenza Claudio Zambon – non ho mai visto una gelata così dannosa». Gravi danni anche al mais, mentre il frumento ha retto meglio. «Il guaio – spiega Confragricoltura – è che molti agricoltori si erano assicurati per la grandine, ma non per il gelo, ritenendo l’inverno ormai finito e altri stanno ancora attendendo dallo Stato i contributi del 2015. Un momento davvero difficile». Cristina Guarda, è «certa del pronto intervento di Avepa. È urgente la dichiarazione dello stato di calamità da parte della Regione e l’apertura delle procedure per accedere ai finanziamenti previsti dalla Misura 5.2.1 per evitare  vera e propria catastrofe per un territorio che vive di viticoltura». 

Ingenti danni si segnalano anche nelle zone vitivinicole del Veronese e della Franciacorta.

Anche la grillina Silvia Benedetti (M5s), membro della commissione Agricoltura, insiste: “Le temperature  rischiano di compromettere interi raccolti soprattutto per quanto riguarda la produzione vitivinicola. Questo evento  va ad aggiungersi a un quadro già per sé disastroso per via di una siccità senza recenti precedenti e una carenza di risorse idriche complicata ulteriormente in alcune zone da gravi contaminazioni. La produzione agricola di tutto il territorio veneto ha per questo estremamente bisogno di misure straordinarie, a supporto dei danni subiti e per salvare il salvabile”. E chiede lo “stato di calamità”.

Pubblicato in: Agricoltura, Devoluzione socialismo, Unione Europea

Francia. Agricoltori tra Les Républicains e Front National.

Giuseppe Sandro Mela.

2016-12-25.

 demachy-pierre-antoine-la-festa-dellessere-supremo-celebrata-da-robespierre-al-campo-di-marte-l8-giugno-1794-musee-de-la-ville-de-paris

Demachy Pierre-Antoine. La festa dell’Essere supremo celebrata da Robespierre al Campo di Marte l’8 giugno 1794.  Musée de la Ville de Paris


«Agri-business accounts for a ballooning share of France’s farm income — €75.2 billion ($80 billion) in 2015.»

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«Last year, 30 percent of French farmers earned under 354 euros a month — far below the national poverty threshold of 800 euros — and their numbers are rising fast, according to the farmers’ social security system.»

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«presidential candidates should show “more consideration” for farmers or “not be surprised” to see them turn away from traditional parties.»

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«Camus acknowledged that the FN is on the rise in rural France, but for farmers, any anti-EU sentiment must be weighed against the EU subsidies that make up some 80 percent of their income, on average.»

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In un solo mandato elettorale Mr Hollande è riuscito a distruggere il comparto agricolo francese.

Le cifre sono orripilanti.

– Circa il 30% degli agricoltori francesi ha un reddito sotto i 354 euro mensili, quando la soglia di povertà è stata fissata ad 800 euro.

– L’80% delle entrate degli agricoltori è costituita da sussidi dell’Unione Europea.

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Questo è sempre stato una delle più potenti armi di ricatto esercitato dalla Germania sulla Francia: o vi allineate alle nostre posizioni politiche oppure faremo cessare gli aiuti alla vostra agricoltura. Si ricordi come gli aiuti all’agricoltura francese fossero una delle clausole residue degli accordi di pace del dopoguerra.

Se la posizione tedesca è sicuramente poco ‘elegante’, ma almeno ha una sua logica, quella francese è stata ben poco comprensibile. Mr Hollade non ha fatto proprio nulla per rivitalizzare il comparto agricolo e renderlo almeno un po’ più competitivo. La sua presidenza sono stati anni dilapidati.

Adesso tutto il comparto è ad un bivio, e tutte e due le scelte saranno dolorose.

Se votassero i Les Républicains correrebbero il serio pericolo di restare nella situazione attuale, sempre che essa non peggiori ulteriormente.

Se votassero invece per il Front National, sicuramente riceverebbero molta maggiore attenzione da parte del governo, ma nel contempo potrebbero perdere gran parte dei sussidi europei.


The Local. 216-12-16. France’s farmers ‘left behind’ as election nears

France’s presidential election is generating little enthusiasm on the windswept plains of Normandy, where struggling farmers long ago fell out of love with the establishment, whether in Paris or Brussels.

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France’s presidential election is generating little enthusiasm on the windswept plains of Normandy, where struggling farmers long ago fell out of love with the establishment, whether in Paris or Brussels.

“Every five years when elections come around they put farmers on a pedestal, and then once they’re in power they leave us by the wayside,” said Jean-Francois Leostic, a dairy farmer near the town of Bayeux.

Farmers in the cradle of Camembert cheese and Calvados apple brandy hold out little hope that the president elected in May will have their back.

In Europe’s top agricultural power, the government admits that more than a tenth of France’s 400,000 farms are in a “situation of extreme urgency”.

The crisis has torn at the fabric of rural life, and as farmers see their livelihoods evaporate, more and more are giving up, with an alarming spike in suicides over recent years.

A helpline for farmers recorded 1,700 calls in the first half of 2016, nearly triple the number from the same period in 2015.

Last month, farmers in Orleans set up a symbolic cemetery of wooden crosses outside the central city’s cathedral to dramatise the surge.

Suicide vigilance 

Last year saw months of protests nationwide, and hundreds of Normandy farmers made headlines by driving their tractors to the regional capital Caen to dump manure outside government offices.

Philippe Marie, who raises dairy cows and grows apples on a 400-year-old, 100-hectare (250-acre) farm near Bayeux, was among them.

“I join all the demos,” Marie told AFP. “It’s important to show… that we are still here, still proud and we still want to succeed.”

But Marie, 49, says the anger has given way to despair: “Many of us… no longer dare to talk about it.”

Anne Pelletier, who counsels distressed farmers, says she is on the lookout for the most severe cases.

“We are vigilant,” she said. “We are trained in suicide prevention but that is not a guarantee.”

Agri-business accounts for a ballooning share of France’s farm income — €75.2 billion ($80 billion) in 2015.

Last year, 30 percent of French farmers earned under 354 euros a month — far below the national poverty threshold of 800 euros — and their numbers are rising fast, according to the farmers’ social security system.

Farmers predominated in the countryside in the 1970s, but they now make up just two percent of France’s overall population of 66 million, said political scientist Jean-Yves Camus.

Some 5,000 people leave agriculture each year.

“Young people are getting out of farming. It’s understandable,” said Daniel Lecuir, who heads a dairy producers association representing nearly 180 farms.

The farmers’ worsening plight has boosted the sway of the far-right, anti-EU National Front (FN) led by Marine Le Pen.

“The FN has gotten stronger with (Socialist President) Francois Hollande in power,” said Franck Lechevrel, who runs a bar in Bayeux. “I know quite a few guys who say they’re voting Le Pen.”

Jean-Francois Godard, whose dairy farm is going organic for the extra cash its milk will fetch, understands the temptation.

“Europe has become a scapegoat,” he said. “The National Front proposes… to leave the EU, to leave the euro. People say to themselves they won’t have any more hassles, that could entice some farmers.”

Xavier Beuline, head of the main farmers’ union FNSEA, said on Tuesday that presidential candidates should show “more consideration” for farmers or “not be surprised” to see them turn away from traditional parties.

Camus acknowledged that the FN is on the rise in rural France, but for farmers, any anti-EU sentiment must be weighed against the EU subsidies that make up some 80 percent of their income, on average.

Without this aid, “their situation would be really drastic”, Camus noted.

‘Grievances’ 

Dairy farmers’ incomes have plunged since milk quotas were ended last year, leading to a steep drop in prices.

Globalisation — an insignificant factor when the EU’s Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) was first set up in 1962 — has further depressed prices.

Small dairy farmers’ cut of a litre of milk at the supermarket fails to even cover their overheads while retailers enjoy huge margins, so “naturally they have grievances”, Camus said.

But the French farm, along with France’s vaunted cuisine, is so embedded in the national psyche that no one can imagine its total disappearance.

“We have a real card to play” as the producers of food specialities prized around the world, said Lecuir. “They can never take that away from us.”

Pubblicato in: Agricoltura

Russia. Altai. Entra in produzione il vino siberiano.

Giuseppe Sandro Mela.

2016-10-20.

 2016-10-12__russia-altai-entra-in-produzione-il-vino-siberiano-__001

 

«Temperatures in Siberia are well below freezing throughout the winter, and remain sub-zero into April. In January, the average temperature is -17.8 °C (-0.4 °F), but by July the mercury can hit a more enjoyable 13.8 °C (56 °F).»

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«a dogged group of winemakers in the foothills of the Altai Mountains have conquered the frosts to produce both red and white varieties, and hope to start selling them next year.»

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«”Our French partners spent two years studying the climate conditions and soil, and once they made sure these were appropriate, they started choosing grape types.»

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«The vineyards lie around the village of Altaiskoye (population: 4,000). The first was planted in 2009 using cuttings from the Franche-Comté region of eastern France, supplied by the Guillaume family nursery. It included 20 types of grape chosen specially for their hardiness.»

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«”The thing is, flavour forms not immediately but by year 10. So that’s why in [the] first two years [the] assessment was, “the wine is a bit sour, not enough sugar” and only in 2014 was our white wine described as good in terms of flavour, scent and colour.»

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«”The red wine was described as good in flavour.”»

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«”I hope that the wine in Russia will be transferred from the category of alcohol products to the category of food, and then various issues associated with the licence demand, any headaches with the need to make paperwork, will disappear by themselves.”»

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Altaiskoye è un paesino di 4,000 anime un centinaio di kilometri a sud di Novosibirsk.

Ci si sarebbe aspettati di tutto, tranne che di trovarvi delle vigne. Non solo: vigne dalle quali poter produrre del vino.

E, a quanto dicono, anche vino del tutto ragionevole.

A quanto sembrerebbe, sarebbe stato selezionato un vitigno resistente al freddo invernale e che non necessiterebbe il solleone di luglio – agosto per andare a maturazione.

Non si nega che si sarebbe alquanto curiosi di degustarlo.

Il paesaggio siberiano è incantevole. Spesso si incontrano punti ove non ci si stupirebbe se uscissero d’incanto gnomi e folletti, specie durante il lungo inverno. Spettacoli incredibili, ove i diversi villaggi punteggiano distese innevate che ricordano quasi arcipelaghi dispersi nel mare.

Sinceramente, vedervi una vigna darebbe una ventata di gioia, di allegria.


Bbc. 2016-10-10. Siberian wine could be coming to a table near you

Siberia is known for its bitter, snowy winters – hardly the conditions associated with a thriving wine industry.

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But a dogged group of winemakers in the foothills of the Altai Mountains have conquered the frosts to produce both red and white varieties, and hope to start selling them next year.

Vladimir Vagner, head of the Altaiskaia Loza [“Altai Vine”] wine company, is convinced the wines will prove a hit around the world.

He recruited the help of experts from France to find grapes that could weather the frosts and thrive during the area’s balmy summers – which can be as hot as many parts of France and other wine-producing countries.

Grapes to weather the winter

He told the Siberian Times: “Our French partners spent two years studying the climate conditions and soil, and once they made sure these were appropriate, they started choosing grape types.

“Initially, we selected an area for the vineyards. It was a former fruit garden, we planted 600 saplings to see if they could make it through winter – and all but two of them actually did so.”

The vineyards lie around the village of Altaiskoye (population: 4,000). The first was planted in 2009 using cuttings from the Franche-Comté region of eastern France, supplied by the Guillaume family nursery. It included 20 types of grape chosen specially for their hardiness.

Ultimately, the growers picked four or five – including Pinot Noir and Muscat Blanc.

“We produced last year, three kinds of red wine and have made pink wine by mixing white and red grapes,” Mr Vagner told the BBC.

“We made a white wine based on the varieties of Muscat, and as an experiment made the first wine from frozen grapes – so called “ice wine”. Given our climate, we will continue to apply this technology further.”

Ice wine, also known by its German name “Eiswein”, is a very sweet dessert wine made from grapes that have been frozen while still on the vine – an ideal solution for winemakers in snow-capped climes.

Temperatures in Siberia are well below freezing throughout the winter, and remain sub-zero into April. In January, the average temperature is -17.8 °C (-0.4 °F), but by July the mercury can hit a more enjoyable 13.8 °C (56 °F).

Mr Vagner, 63, says all the wine is organic, grown without the use of chemicals.

So will it actually taste any good? He says it is a little soon to be certain – but the signs are very positive.

“The thing is, flavour forms not immediately but by year 10. So that’s why in [the] first two years [the] assessment was, “the wine is a bit sour, not enough sugar” and only in 2014 was our white wine described as good in terms of flavour, scent and colour.

“The red wine was described as good in flavour.”

A question of investment

At the moment, the vineyard is allowed to make wine for domestic use and for tastings. But at 20 million roubles (£240,500), a commercial licence to sell the wine is a costly investment. Mr Vagner is keen to attract investors to help the 12 hectare project reach its full potential.

He told the BBC that a small change to Russian law would hugely boost the business’s prospects.

“I hope that the wine in Russia will be transferred from the category of alcohol products to the category of food, and then various issues associated with the licence demand, any headaches with the need to make paperwork, will disappear by themselves.”